A stone buying trip to Europe

I’ve had a fascination with gemstones ever since my mother showed me her jewellery box! But one stone in particular really caught my attention which was an Aquamarine! This belonged to my Great Aunt which came from Brazil.

My fascination never waned and during my first few years in the jewellery trade I studied my FGA and DGA which opened up a whole new world.

During my time working for Stephen Webster I visited a number of stone dealers and cutters in an area called Idar Oberstein which is deeply intertwined with this town.  Its known as a global hub for gemstone cutting and boasts a fascinating narrative that reflects the artistry and tradition of gemology.

The gem cutting, or lapidary involves the shaping and polishing of gemstones to enhance their natural beauty. The process begins with selecting the rough material.

There are many style of cutting, faceted, cabochon and engraving.

Faceting a stone requires cutting a series of reflective angles to maximize brilliance and sparkle.

Cabochon are polished smooth surfaces, often opaque stones such as turquoise or Star Sapphire which when cut shows of the star beautifully when I light is shone directly onto it.

Engraving is an intricate process which is used for personalizing jewellery for example a family crest carved into a carnelian.

Idar Oberstein’s legacy of gem cutting dates back to the 1700s when gems traders from the regions started travelling to Brazil and bringing back precious stones such as diamonds, emeralds and topaz.

Today Idar Oberstein is the home to several renowned gem cutting workshops and one of them I was lucky enough to visit this month.  I first had dealings with this company 20 years ago during my time working at Stephen Webster and I’ve kept in touch with them ever since but not had the chance to visit.

I could not believe the change in the company, when I first visited they had one machine which is capable of cutting to such precise measurements and so quickly that hand cutting is almost no longer required. These machines are mainly used in the steel industry but they have since been adapted for the jewellery trade.

They now have many machines all cutting different patterns in varied materials from mother of pearl, onyx, agate, turquoise and crystal.

This is an exquisite artform and I’m so glad to see that this will continue for many years to come as these gemstone dealers and cutters have been able to move on technically and adapt with changing times.

Coloured gemstones and diamonds are as individual as people they have their own fingerprint.  In coloured gemstones there are never two alike, they are totally unique.

Importantly the jewellery trade needs both, gemstones to enhance jewellery and give the pieces emotional and monetary value. The jewellery also becomes an emotional and cherished element of personal adornment.